Historically, perfume and fine fragrance were crafted as an art form using only natural ingredients—distilled flowers, resins, woods, and botanicals—blended by skilled perfumers. Each batch was unique, influenced by factors like climate, soil, and harvest conditions. However, with the rise of modern chemistry and aromachemicals, 99.9% of fine fragrances today rely on synthetic, artificial compounds that mimic natural scents with precision. These lab-created molecules ensure consistency, longevity, and cost efficiency, making fragrance creation an industrialized process rather than an organic, evolving craft.

These synthetics come with significant health and environmental costs as well. Ever stepped off a flight into a duty-free store and felt an immediate head rush? It might not be the jetlag—it’s likely the millions of chemical particles you’re inhaling as you pass the Chanel and YSL testers.

Synthetic ingredients commonly used in fine fragrances have been linked to hormonal disruption, neurological damage, cancer, respiratory issues, skin irritation, and environmental harm. See the glossary at the end of this article for a detailed breakdown of these chemicals and their effects on human and environmental health.

Many of these chemicals are found in nearly all mainstream perfume brands—even those that market themselves as natural. Yes, that includes Le Labo, the Estée Lauder-owned “Brooklyn-based” brand whose Santal 33 is likely composed of synthetic compounds like Ambroxan, ISO E Super, and Synthetic Musk. These chemicals may have neurotoxic effects, disrupt endocrine function, pose potential carcinogenic risks, accumulate in human fat tissue and aquatic species, and cause skin irritation and allergic reactions.

Synthetics are widely used in perfumery for several reasons:

• They allow perfumers to create scents that don’t exist in nature, like marine or metallic notes.

• They help ensure consistency across large batches and increase shelf stability.

• They are cheaper than natural alternatives, making it possible to include notes that are labor-intensive or rare in their natural state—like oud or rose.

How to Identify Toxic Fragrances

Unfortunately, fine fragrance brands are not legally required to disclose their full list of ingredients if the formula is considered proprietary. However, there are a few red flags that can help consumers identify potentially toxic fragrances:

• The only listed ingredient is “fragrance” or “parfum” – This means that the brand did not want to disclose the true ingredient list, and it likely contains hundreds of undisclosed synthetic chemicals.

• Known toxic synthetics are listed in the ingredients such as:

• Phthalates (DEP, DBP)

• Synthetic Musks (Galaxolide, Tonalide, Musk Xylene, Musk Ketone)

• Parabens (Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben)

However, best way to avoid toxins is to support brands committed to 100% natural fine fragrances, like Un Jeu D’échecs, Abel, and Hiram Green. Un Jeu D’échecs uses only 100% natural essential oils, which are “face-verified”—meaning we meet directly with farmers and distillers to ensure our oils are sustainably and ethically sourced.

The fragrance industry is long overdue for a return to naturalism and artfully-crafted scents. By supporting 100% natural fragrance brands and demanding ingredient disclosure, consumers can push the industry away from synthetic chemicals and toward a future where luxury and well-being go hand in hand.

Glossary of Harmful Synthetic Ingredients in Fine Fragrance

1. Acetaldehyde

Human Effects:

• Potential carcinogen, linked to DNA damage.

• Causes respiratory irritation and lung inflammation.

• Can trigger allergic reactions and skin irritation.

Environmental Effects:

• Contributes to air pollution and ozone formation.

• Toxic to aquatic organisms.

2. Ambroxan

Human Effects:

• Can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions.

• May trigger respiratory sensitivity with prolonged exposure.

Environmental Effects:

• Bioaccumulative and persistent in aquatic environments.

• Potential toxic effects on marine ecosystems.

3. Benzene

Human Effects:

• Known carcinogen, linked to leukemia and blood disorders.

• Causes dizziness, headaches, and respiratory irritation.

• Long-term exposure can damage the immune system.

Environmental Effects:

• Contributes to air pollution and smog formation.

• Highly toxic to aquatic organisms.

4. Benzyl Alcohol

Human Effects:

• Can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions.

• May trigger respiratory discomfort when inhaled.

• High concentrations can lead to central nervous system depression.

Environmental Effects:

• Can be toxic to aquatic organisms in high concentrations.

• Degrades more readily than other synthetic ingredients.

5. Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA)

Human Effects:

• Potential endocrine disruptor, interfering with hormone function.

• Classified as a possible human carcinogen.

• Can cause allergic reactions and skin irritation.

Environmental Effects:

• Persistent in the environment, contaminating soil and water.

• Toxic to marine life, leading to ecosystem disruption.

6. Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT)

Human Effects:

• Potential endocrine disruptor, affecting hormone levels.

• May contribute to liver and kidney toxicity.

• Can cause skin sensitization and allergic reactions.

Environmental Effects:

• Bioaccumulative and persistent in aquatic ecosystems.

• Toxic to fish and other marine organisms.

7. Butylparaben

Human Effects:

• Stronger endocrine disruptor than other parabens.

• Potential risk for developmental and reproductive toxicity.

• Can trigger skin irritation and allergic reactions.

Environmental Effects:

• Bioaccumulative and persistent in aquatic environments.

• Linked to reproductive harm in marine species.

8. Diethyl Phthalate (DEP)

Human Effects:

• Endocrine disruptor, potentially interfering with hormone function.

• Linked to reproductive and developmental toxicity.

• Possible skin irritant and allergen.

Environmental Effects:

• Persistent in the environment and found in waterways.

• Toxic to aquatic organisms.

9. Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP)

Human Effects:

• Known endocrine disruptor, affecting reproductive health.

• Possible developmental toxicity, linked to birth defects.

• Can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions.

Environmental Effects:

• Bioaccumulative and persistent in aquatic environments.

• Toxic to fish and other aquatic life.

10. Ethanol

Human Effects:

• Can cause skin dryness and irritation.

• Inhalation may lead to dizziness or respiratory irritation.

• Repeated exposure may affect the nervous system.

Environmental Effects:

• Can contribute to air pollution in industrial emissions.

• Low persistence in aquatic environments, but excessive concentrations can be harmful.

11. Ethylparaben

Human Effects:

• Endocrine disruptor, linked to hormone imbalance.

• Potential skin sensitizer, leading to irritation.

• Possible reproductive toxicity concerns.

Environmental Effects:

• Detected in water systems, impacting aquatic life.

• Can bioaccumulate in marine organisms.

12. Formaldehyde

Human Effects:

• Known carcinogen, linked to nasal and throat cancers.

• Causes respiratory irritation and asthma exacerbation.

• Can trigger skin irritation and contact dermatitis.

Environmental Effects:

• Contributes to air pollution and smog formation.

• Toxic to aquatic life when released into waterways.

13. Galaxolide (HHCB)

Human Effects:

• Can accumulate in human fat tissue and breast milk.

• Possible endocrine disruptor, interfering with hormone activity.

• Potential for skin irritation and allergic reactions.

Environmental Effects:

• Persistent in the environment, found in wastewater, soil, and aquatic organisms.

• Bioaccumulates in marine life, leading to long-term ecological damage.

14. Isopropyl Alcohol

Human Effects:

• Can cause skin irritation and dryness.

• High concentrations may lead to dizziness and nausea.

• May exacerbate respiratory conditions in sensitive individuals.

Environmental Effects:

• Evaporates quickly, contributing to air pollution.

• Low toxicity in water but can be harmful in high doses.

15. ISO E Super

Human Effects:

• Can cause skin sensitization and irritation.

• May trigger allergic reactions in sensitive individuals.

• Possible neurotoxic effects with excessive inhalation exposure.

Environmental Effects:

• Persistent in the environment, with potential bioaccumulation.

• Can impact aquatic ecosystems.

16. Methylparaben

Human Effects:

• Mimics estrogen, potentially disrupting the endocrine system.

• Can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions.

• May contribute to reproductive toxicity.

Environmental Effects:

• Found in wastewater and marine life, affecting aquatic ecosystems.

• May contribute to hormone disruption in fish and amphibians.

17. Musk Ketone

Human Effects:

• Can accumulate in human fat tissue.

• Potential endocrine disruptor, with links to hormonal imbalance.

• May cause skin sensitization and allergic reactions.

Environmental Effects:

• Persistent in the environment, detected in water supplies and wildlife.

• Bioaccumulates in aquatic species, affecting ecosystems.

18. Musk Xylene

Human Effects:

• Classified as a possible carcinogen.

• Can disrupt endocrine function, leading to reproductive toxicity.

• May cause skin irritation and allergic reactions.

Environmental Effects:

• Persistent in the environment, contaminating soil and water sources.

• Toxic to fish and other aquatic life.

19. Propylparaben

Human Effects:

• Disrupts hormone function, mimicking estrogen.

• Potential link to decreased fertility and reproductive issues.

• Can cause skin irritation and hypersensitivity.

Environmental Effects:

• Found in ocean water and fish, leading to ecosystem disruption.

• May contribute to endocrine disruption in wildlife.

20. Toluene

Human Effects:

• Causes neurological damage, including dizziness and cognitive impairment.

• Can lead to developmental issues in fetuses.

• Irritates the skin, eyes, and respiratory system.

Environmental Effects:

• Persistent in water and soil, contaminating ecosystems.

• Toxic to fish and other aquatic life.

21. Tonalide (AHTN)

Human Effects:

• Potential endocrine disruptor, affecting hormone regulation.

• Can accumulate in human tissues and bloodstream.

• Possible skin and respiratory irritant.

Environmental Effects:

• Detected in rivers, lakes, and wastewater treatment plants.

• Persistent and bioaccumulative, with toxic effects on fish and wildlife.

22. Xylene

Human Effects:

• Can cause nervous system toxicity, leading to dizziness and confusion.

• Irritates the respiratory tract and skin.

• Potential reproductive toxin with prolonged exposure.

Environmental Effects:

• Contaminates soil and water, persisting in the environment.

• Toxic to aquatic organisms.